The Beaten Tourist Track

Oliver Friedli

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From Delhi (Is it still so foggy?) we travelled to Jaipur, then further to Udaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalamer, Bikaner, Samode, Agra and Delhi. This time we opted for a taxi with driver as our mode of transport, which is of course very, very convenient. On our first visit to India three years ago (we travelled in the south then) we used the train and mainly the bus.

I think for travelling it's more comfortable in a train, it's just a little complicated to get a reserved ticket. Buses on the other hand are easier to book! Well we've been in India twice during Christmas and New Year holidays, which is the highest high season. Maybe it's easier to get on a train (sleeper) during the rest of the year....I don't know.

So with our taxi we could cover a lot more ground than we'd planned at the beginning. But on the whole I think travelling by bus or train is more fun! From the places we've visited I liked Jaisalamer and Udaipur most. Udaipur I think because of the water and Jaisalamer because it was small and very relaxed.

We had no problems , in contrary, we've met a few very nice and interesting people. As an European you have to get used to the different mentality first. That's not always easy. First there are the Rickshaw drivers who besiege any foreign tourist at once! And if you say no, that doesn't mean no to them at all. I didn't have any problems with that though I'm a very patient person I even found all the stories they've told in order to get a customer very amusing. After all it's their job!

There was one rather bad experience. It was in the Red fort in Delhi. My wife and I went there and on it's grounds seemed to be some sort of political rally taking place (they had green/white flags). We were (specialy my wife ) harrassed by about 20 young men, maybe 25-30 Years of age. They followed us shouting (insults ?) and laughing. It was kind of scary (my wife and me we were all the time decently dressed) so we left or better we fled (what can you do against 20 men?)the scene. But that's the only bad ting that happened and I think (if possible) we visit India again! In Europe a lot of people who travelled in India are saying, either you love India or you hate it......I think I love it!

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All text and photographs for the above article ©, 1999 Oliver Friedli.